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Simple 3D Print Mold has turned extremely complicated, please help!

Hello,

New to the forums, and I wanted to jump on here and see if I could get some advice on a simple mold design that I would like to 3D print.

Essentially the idea is to make a 2-piece mold of a long, thin tube. The first test would only be 8 inches long and the diameter would be around 10mm (about the size of a regular bungee cord). I am also looking to have 4 keys on the mold to help lock it in place. And lastly, I would like to make each piece as hollow as effectively possible, so it will save cost on printing. I am attaching pictures to help get an idea of what I mean.

The problem that I am having is trying to get the overall total pixel points low enough to print while keeping my edges nice and clean and the surfaces smooth without lines on the inside of the tube area of the mold. Even with splitting both objects, the count is still too high to print. I am trying to get down to around 50 to 60 MB for the final stl. file size but it seems impossible to do with a clean model and low total points. Let me explain how I am going about making the model, and I hope you guys might have some tips or better ideas of going about it.

I am starting with a cube and turning it into a Qcube under initialize and then I bring the x, y, z res down to 1. From there, I use the move tool to turn it into the rectangular long box shape that I need. After this, I append a cylinder, and to smooth the topology I can either do this by dividing it a couple of times or I can use QCylinder in the initialize option and change x, y, z res up to 100. Either outcome has been about the same overall, but at this point, I stretch and enlarge the cylinder for the size of the tube hole and then boolean out of the rectangular box leaving me usually with the boolean model with 34 to 39,000 total points. Definitely manageable, and both pieces have clean surfaces and edges but nothing is dynameshed at this point.

To keep the edges and surfaces clean, I generally have to dynamesh the resolution to 600, which gives me around at that point 8 to 10 million active points to keep it somewhat close to the original clean edges and smoothness, but it is still noticeable around the edges. And the tube areas start to show lines. Then if I want to create a shell I need to also dynamesh again and at that point because of more topology, it increases my total active points to around 23,000 million. At this point, there is no way to decimate the model down to around 45 to 60 thousand active points and still keep the model clean when preparing it for the stl. file. Or at least the way that I am going about it.

If anyone has any advice or a different way that I could do this, please let me know. It really is a pretty simple shape but I am trying to get a clean model to print and has been quite challenging. I feel like I am either doing it entirely wrong or I am just missing something but any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read through this giant post. I look forward to hearing back from you guys.  Thank you again.








Hi @Dedhed

I didn’t see the word “decimation” anywhere in your post. Decimation Master is generally how you would prepare a mesh for 3d pre-print. Can you still not get the polycount to an acceptable range with DM? It should be able to crunch that down adequately.

If I missed that, or your polycount needs are especially extreme, then modeling the object from low poly with ZModeler should produce very economical topology.

Keep in mind that many 3d print processes are not accurate enough to reproduce especially fine or crisp detail anyway. Minor imperfections visible in Zbrush would probably be lost in the print process. Also, most pre print software these days can handle pretty decent polycounts, though nowhere near Zbrush, of course. Aiming for 40k points may be unnecessarily extreme.

Good morning,

Thank you so much for your response. I do apologize for the long confusing post. I have done decimation master with the model and unfortunately, even with about 20% decimation, it brings out quite a bit of artifacts. I have played around with the decimation settings too, and to prevent artifacts, it is still to high in total points, or the quality is just so low that it's not worth it to print. 

I haven’t dived too far into the Zmodeler tool, but from what I have seen this may be a good way to go. If I produce a low poly model with great topology, when I do a cylinder insert, how would it look extracted from the low poly rectangular box? Do you think the extraction would still look clean? Also if I did use the zmodeler, and produced a low poly object, how would I split it in half with a clean split? Generally, I usually have best experience with high-resolution dynamesh leaves a good split between the objects.

As far as the minor imperfections being visible or not in the 3D print process, you are absolutely right. I may just say screw, get it printed with what I can do, and hope for the best. Any possible imperfections that do happen to be visible on the print I could always clean up myself.

Thank you again Spyndel for your response. It is greatly appreciated. I would love to get this model done so I can start testing some castings out on it. I made some 1 piece molds recently and really enjoyed being able to print the mold rather than the traditional ways. Look forward to hearing back from you. Talk to you soon.

RE:Decimation Master

Is a fairly reliable tool for getting polys crunched down for Pre-print, especially on an object with such clear, clean edge distinction. I would be curious to see what kind of “artifacts” the process is producing–maybe get a look at the decimated topology in poly-frame mode, to see if maybe theres anything that can be done. Your mesh there is mostly large flat planes, and DM should be able to drastically reduce polycounts in those areas. Id like to imagine you could push the decimation well past 20%. You only need to worry about those smaller notches and protrusions.

Remember, as long as there’s no especially coarse faceting, minor visual imperfections you can see in the Zbrush preview will probably not translate to the printed model, as long as the surface is mathematically accurate. Decimation produces weird topology that is adequate for printing, but does not always display well in Zbrush.


Re: Low Poly

Low Poly modeling is a skill set in its own right, and there are many ways to get to the same place. Just keep in mind that when doing hard surface work at high poly (your current approach), you need sufficient resolution to maintain crisp edges. When working from Low Poly, however, on objects with a combination of curves and hard planes, you will need to subdivide the geometry to smooth it out, and you will need Creasing to tell Zbrush which edges need to remain hard when subdividing.

When working at low poly, Dynamic Subdivision is a useful tool to preview the smoothed mesh non-destructively, prior to subdividing.

Live Boolean is a good way to join meshes at low poly, because it only alters topology where the emshes are joined, leaving the rest efficient and untouched. Bear in mind that polygons with greater than 4 points cannot exist in Zbrush at any time, so the Live Boolean process will insert edges around the join to force quads and tris. Some of this geometry may be problematic depending on location and creasing, and may require manual clean up. To that end, you may want to stay as low poly as possible, to limit the amount of connections made.

Low poly modeling is a slower and more methodical approach to creating form, but you will end up with with far better and more efficient topology, that can be subdivided as necessary to smooth. The Pixologic Classroom has a number of videos on Zmodeler.. However, I’m still not convinced you couldn’t simply decimate sufficiently.

Hello again,

Thank you for your response. That is extremely useful to know with the low poly modeling. I am going to try and do a couple more attempts with the decimation and I’ll try and get a photo of the artifacts that I was mentioning. I know it can make some funny stuff for topology but it was getting to the point where it actually affects the form of the model itself. The notches were almost entirely destroyed. But I’ll give it a go a little later tonight. I got some yard work to catch up on all day lol.

Thanks again Spyndel for taking the time to help me out with this. I’ll definitely check out some more stuff on the zmodeler. I’ve watched a little bit of the brush classes for it but I only a few. I think ultimately that would be the way to go, but I need to spend some time really getting the hang of zmodeler. It seems like there are plenty of ways to get to this shape with it. Thanks again, look forward to talking further with you.

I just decimated something vaguely similar to the sort of things you’re doing to show you it can be done:

dm

The mesh didn’t need nearly that many polygons to keep the edges crisp, but your mesh has a lot of recessed area which will increase the surface area significantly, increasing the required polycount. You see that Decimation master keeps quite a bit of geometry around the edges, but reduces the polycount significantly on the flat planes.

If you’re having trouble preserving fine detail, be sure to read the Decimation Master documentation linked above for information on how to use masking to protect fine detail areas.

You can also always decimate the main body of the mesh separately, then use Live Boolean to insert low poly meshes to make those fine protrusions and shallow recesses.

Hey there,

Thanks for taking the time to do that. That turned out great! It looks like it kept the detail just fine. Well, I'm going to retry a couple more times here. That was an excellent idea about decimating the object separately and then adding in the keys. I don't see a problem with the extruding keys but if I recess a key, wouldn't the decimated topology through off the edging of it? Also if I do this, should I do my shell after or before decimating the main object? I guess, at what point, in general, do I want to do the shell of the object? Thanks again. Talk to you soon.

Hey there,

just wanted to reach out and let you know I think I got it. I just simply decimated an additional time lol. It still left some strange artifacts on the tops of each side but I won’t be using that area in the mold. The primary concerns of the edges and the smoothness are still super clean. I just dynameshed everything at 1000+ and then did my shells on each side. It was about 25 million active points, but after decimating, it got down to about 5 million. Definitely needed a lot more and but just out of the sake of it I pressed decimate again and the topology didn’t really change at all so I think I’m gonna go with it.

Thank you again Spyndel for all the help and taking the time to answer all my questions. You have been a tremendous help, and I can’t thank you enough!