Heavy Demon 3D Bust Keyshot Mock Up, we are currently working on printing this thing up. Until the final model is done, here is a keyshot mock up.
Thanks Nickz for that awesome tutorial
http://www.digital3dmodels.com/#!zbrush-tiling-texture-set-up/c1w6a
I wanted to try your awesome tutorial, but unfortunately
ZBrush 4R7 P2 (drop-down list - Texture palette) will not import any .tga files.
Christian
Christian,
Yeah, to get the maps into ZBrush you will need to convert them from targa to .psd, .jpg, or .bmp, .tif, .png or .gif. The reason that I converted things over to .tga is because that is the format that I like to use in Maya and eventually push on over to UE4. Hope that helps! But yes…I wish ZBrush was able to accept .tga files.
Here is the ZBrush Heavy Demon 3D Bust after being printed on the Form Labs 1 +. (100 microns, would have liked a higher resolution but the peel force at lower microns with this large of a print was causing print failures.) Now it is time to start cleaning this up and painting.
More to come!
So cool!
Are you sellin these?
nebular, well…haven’t really thought of it until you mentioned it. I guess the next step will be to see how to reproduce copies…so maybe in the future!
Sweet! We have a Form1+ here at work as well. Had it for about 2 months or so. Exceptional printing!
Was this a hollow print or solid? And do you see more print failures from hollow prints?
This model is hollowed out. There might be more print flute due to hollowing, if it is too thin that can be a problem for sur, especially if you if you leave it in the alcohol bath too long. I have also seen cracking during the uvs curing process. But if you don’t hollow out, you increase material cost and increase build times.
I would so more of the failures I have seen have been due to me trying to print as large as possible at 25 microns. The peel force on the larger prints at the highest resolution seems to be problematic.
The 25 microns seems to work better on smaller objects, but man is it pretty when it is done.
The other thing is you can’t see a lot of the detail that is there until you paint it flat grey, the surface is somewhat translucent, and this hides some of the detail.
Print orientation and support stutter attachment points is another interesting game you have to play to get your part printed.
Overall, the process is somewhat technical, beautiful, frustrating and amazing all at the same time.
Thanks for the info, Nick! If you don’t mind me asking, how thick do you usually make your wall thickness and do you add any drain holes on your model? We’ve had very little luck printing hollow models. There’s always some part that’s caved in.
So yes I started using drain holes on the top of the model…not sure how grest that works, use internal support structures, wall thickness comes from the dynamesh are when punching a hole in the model using a negative insert mesh brush. I’m not too sure about thickness, still trying to figure out the best depth, I just know too thin is not good! Sorry…wish I had more but we are still learning ourselves. There is a Facebook group called mold3d that has a lot of great info. Might want to check that out!
Thanks again! I really appreciate the info! I’ll definitely check out that FB group.
Hi Nick,
Firstly congrats on the model and the print. I too have a form 1 and have had my fair share of print failures but with a reasonable amount of effort manage to successfully print most things at 0.05mm (layer thickness) with the grey resin you are using and often with a reduced base thickness and support density.
I’d be happy to help you troubleshoot any issues you are having, shoot me a file or even just a screen grab of your preform setup.
Kev,
Thanks for the offer! I really appreciate that! What is the largest print you have made at 25 microns? That is what I am striving for, highest quality possible at the largest size. Any tips would be amazing, please share them with all of us, I hope we can all learn through this experience.
So here is the bust and one of the horns cleaned up a bit and a first pass at the paint job, Need to do some more sanding in areas an fill little holes. I have a drain hole on the top of the head that is rather large that needs to be filled as well. I was being lazy and painting this with some cheap spray paint, finally had enough and busted out the old airbrush and was able to get a much better coverage!
Now onto printing the base and the other horn, I am hoping this will be done by end of day today!
The photo seems to pick up more imperfections than what is easy to see with the naked eye, unless you hold the thing really close to your face!
Well, it took awhile to get the prints for the horn and base done. But here are the final results. I found out there was some sort of corruption with my base obj file and it caused some very odd lines and cracking on the base. I was able to glue it back together for the most part. But we are doing a whole other print of this thing so there will be 2 copies when all is said and done. I went back and fixed my base file and this will now need to be printed along with one new horn. But I am pretty happy with the results of my first full 3D print. Pretty exciting stuff!
Hope you enjoy!
So this will be the next 3D print that I make. I already have the model prepped for print. I have already printed it, had a fail in an area, the middle fingers failed as well…but I think I understand why so I rebuilt those areas.
Hope to show the print very soon.
Here is what I plan to 3D print next. This will be a custom pen holder for a Wacom pen. Hope to get it printed up some time this Wednesday.
Peace, NickZ.
Great work on all of the 3d prints, really makes me itch to 3d print some of my models as well Once again, great pieces of art!
Loving the 3d printed demon!