Despicable Me 2: Making of Gru and Lucy maquette

Here is a video of the making of my maquette for Despicable Me2. It shows the posing process with TransposeMaster and some of the steps to create the 3D print of the maquette. Dave Cortez Printed it on the Projet 3000 at medium resolution. After the parts were primed with Bondo spray primer and sanded to get rid of the build layers.





If you are interested in more detail about cleaning 3D prints here is a video of cleaning my sculpture of Bill Presings design.


Thank you very much Michael for these videos and images of Despicable Me 2 maquettes :slight_smile:

Let me know the next time you’ll be in Paris :wink:

Really great stuff Here! Cool process for getting the Marquette finished out. I love your technique for getting the Bondo on the sculpt cleanly; I think I am going to steal that one! I work with acrylics for figure painting all the time and I am sure you have come across something like this but I used to have trouble doing really detailed layering because the paint drys so fast so I made a mix that thins the paint but also adds a decent amount of extra time in that layering and mixing of color. mix a 8oz bottle of distilled water, to 1 part acrylic base and add 4 or five drops of isopropal alcohol. It works like a charm with Reaper paints and I am sure any other high quality paint.

nice :x and great video too :smiley:

i always have pleasure to see your new works and your workflow ,thanks for sharing Michael!

Thanks for sharing Mr. D :slight_smile:
It looks great. Can you share the workflow on splitting up the pieces for print assembly as well?

Awesome Sculpts! :+1:

Those are really nice!


Loveliness and then some.

Thanks everyone! As for how I split the model up for print. Well, I left that to my vendor that printed it, He used Freeform which has a great solid modeler tools set for cutting and booloeans. I know that now with dynamesh it can be done in ZBrush, in fact I think there is a really great thread here on the forum that goes in to that whole process with DynaMesh. Maybe some one can repost it.
But we worked together to design a system of keys to make sure the parts go back together like a model kit. Also we chose obvious places to break the model to help hide the seams. I did have to cut the arms mid way. I used to try and hide those cuts in folds, but I found over time that its best to make some cuts mid form For example I cut the arms mid bicep. That way the seam is easy to get to for filling with putty and sanding.