Wow, thanks ZBrushcentral for top row, really excited. I must say it’s the biggest compliment for my work.
A one part of the whole project is complete, and it’s the stone sitting on top of the project. It glows in the dark, i tried to create an unmixed combo of blue and green, but as i poured them, it was too watery to be separated and turned into one single jade color. I will do some more experiments and make it right next time. And for those, who are wondering what it says, it is a famous sentence: “Life isn’t what happens to you, it’s how you respond to it.”
The geometry of the stone is made in Zbrush really easy by using just one single brush (guess what it is 
) and the text is projected after some subdivision, which allows finer details required for the text.
This is real great work, well done… if I may ask, what router are you using as I will be purchasing one, but scared I buy a dud… love what I see and give me hope, still don’t know how you got the hollow parts on the shield as I assume you are using a 3 Axis?
@Sigmund Hentze
First of all, thanks for your compliment. I don’t have a branded or super fancy CNC router, in fact, it’s an unbranded imported one from China. Although the work area is big, 120x240 centimeter, a 3 axis machine. But with 3 axis CNC, you can carve from both sides, carve and when ready, flip it and carve the other side. Of course, there must be precise calculations happened, otherwise your 2 carves won’t match, if you see hollow parts in my works, they are carved from both sides and/or partly done and assembled. Depending on where you buy your machine, your life actually could be easier than mine. Mine bundled with a Chinese software, the interface is in english and the documentation is auto translated from Chinese, from zero to very little helpful, because of that. There are free programs like mach3 etc, if you are a beginner, i suggest you to learn and use programs, which internationally supported. Chinese CNC machines are actually compatible with international programs like above mentioned mach3. but i already comfortable with the bundled one now. I made some mistakes like, breaking the bits, miscalibration etc at the beginning, i think you will do same things, but no worry, i never had any instructor or experts to teach me, but here i am now :-). Good luck.
Thank you for that speedy reply… I have seen this site, http://komarcnc.com/, but not sure if the company still exists as machines look robust and strong…
Will check the software out, although I think Fusion 360 should help.
Keep it up…
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannt!
Want want want want want!
Awesome work.
Would really appreciate it if you could share photos of your fixtures and techniques for gripping the stock while cutting the other side so as not to damage the first cuts.
Thank you
For those that asked about cnc’s, I just purchased a PDJINC Pilot Pro.
It is a 3 axis machine with addons for 4th and 5th axis, water jet, and laser cutter.
They are in Portland OR.
@Sigmund Hentze:
I never used Fusion 360, so i don’t really know about it. For CNC working, you need at least 2 or 3 programs (depending on your workflow), one for designing and making 3D models (for me it’s ZBrush and Maya), and one for generating gcode used for actual machining and one for reading the generated gcode and controlling the CNC router. Most programs meant for CNC designing are a combination of first two, but as you might guess, their modeling functionality are always inferior compared to ZBrush.
@Mahlikus the Black:
What exactly do you want, a cookie :D?
@Duael:
Thanks. For the 2 sided machining, i always draw and define vector areas (in Adobe illustrator) and tell the router, which areas should be machined first, so the router does not machine away just everything mindlessly. And for the backside, i always machine 1 mm less deeper than it actually should be (sometimes 2mm, when i want to be extra careful), and this way the parts won’t be completely separated, when the wood isn’t deformed, 1mm thick edges can hold the entire parts sturdy enough to be machined from both sides, speed is important too, fast moving big bits can break the 1mm holding edges, but for the finishing passes one always use thin bits, so not really dangerous with them. After it’s machined from both sides, i separate them using handheld dremel and sand the excesses.
Great Job Man! 
I go through my posts and am seeing, that i forgot to mention, where i got the inspiration for the last work, it’s the album cover of a German music band “Blind Guardian”, the albums name is “And Then There Was Silence”. ZBrushcentral does not allow me to edit my posts anymore.
really amazing work