I’m interested in creating some ZBrush sculpts with the specific intent of having them 3D printed with color. I have done quite a bit of research on the topic, and before I ask my questions I would like to share with you guys some resources that I have found particularly helpful.
Shapeways - Guidelines for Color Printing
Sid Naique - Hollowing Out Your Model Using Dynamesh
Sid Nauque - Orienting, Optimizing, and Exporting
Tristan Bethe - Hollowing Out Your Model Using Pro Boolean in 3ds max
Jeff Feligno’s Videos on Sculpting in ZBrush for 3D Printing
I’m specifically interested in the “full color sandstone” process described on the Shapeways website (first link above), which supports more color information than the “per face” process, and requires that your model include UVs and that you export a texture map. I would really appreciate it if those of you who have experience with 3D printing would take a look at my tentative pipeline below, and point out anything that you feel would cause more work than is necessary. I really want to streamline the process.
Below is an outline of the current tentative pipeline I have in my mind:
- Sculpt my high res character in a t-pose using multiple subtools just as you would in any other production pipeline
- Pose the character using Transpose Master
- Do post-pose cleanup work, and rework the anatomy and cloth for the pose
- Merge Visible the subtools/chunks that make sense to combine
- Use Dynamesh to combine the chunks I merged into contiguous, water-tight meshes, and use Projection to get my detail back
- Use UV Master to generate some quick and dirty UVs
- Polypaint the model
- Export the color map
- Hollow out those water-tight meshes using either Dynamesh in ZBrush or a boolean operation in a 3D application
- Use 3D Print Exporter to export the model.
QUESTION 1: Are the merging processes I mention in steps 4 & 5 necessary? My current line of thinking is that I’m using Merge Visible, Dynamesh, and Projection to combine multiple chunks into a single mesh for two primary reasons. 1) It helps to insure that the model is water tight and doesn’t have gaps and crevasses that will cause problems for the 3D printer. 2) It should make creating UVs easier. Instead of having to make UVs for every strap, button, and buckle on the character, I only have to make UVs for the single mesh. The downside is that there is likely going to be some fidelity loss and some cleanup work involved.
QUESTION 2: Should I create my UVs before or after I hollow out the model, and why? If I do it after, as I’m currently suggesting, I’m uncertain what the hollowing process will to do my UVs.
Any other considerations you guys want to share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
PS here is a list of some studios I’m aware of that of that do 3D printing:
Shapeways
i.materialise
Sculpeo
Offload Studios
Ownage hasn’t had a proper website in ages 
Robot the Company
Claybox Studio
Moddler
Any other links you guys want me to include in the list, let me know. I’m personally interested in studios that can print characters and have a reputable looking website. I’m not particularly interested in protoying jewlery and craftworks. I thought Gentel Giant did prints for individuals, but looking at their site I don’t see it. Looks like they just sell figures of licenced IPs.