3d printing

I made my model on the sculptris. How to export the valid 3d file as polygons and other settings. Anyone who works with 3d printing ask for help and in these settings will suit any type of printer?

Most high-res resin (SLA: stereolithography) 3D printers used in printing figurines universally start by ingesting a STL mesh file. STL is the triangular (as opposed to quad) mesh format that nearly every 3D program is capable of importing and/or exporting – CAD or sculpting alike. STL carries the topology shape, but not color. Your painted sculpt will have its color information ignored before it saves to the STL format. Nearly all 3D printers print in one (colored) material anyway.

If the sculpt is destined for a FDM (fused deposition) 3D printer (i.e., Makerbot, Lulzbot, etc) STL ought to be the mesh file they all accept. The STL is first prepped by an intermediary utility to generate a G-Code – the exact path the plastic-extruder head will travel during the entirety of it’s print job. This G-Code is then read into the FDM printer.

If the sculpt is going to a SLA 3D printer (Solus, B9 Creator, envisionTEC, etc) the STL mesh is fed to some sort of slicing utility where your 3D model is reinterpreted as a stack of flat layers. With SLA type of printers, each slice can represent a layer that’s 0.025mm thin – thus resin printers emerge as high-res champs. These printers sequentially project each layer into a vat of resin to grow the 3D model.

An important rule of thumb is that the exported STL needs to be watertight; no open holes, naked edges, etc. If you’ve bunched up an area of your sculpt where the wireframe looks insanely gnarly (i.e., looks like steel wool), there’s a good chance it’ll lead to some STL headaches down the pipeline. Fix these areas in your (Sculptris or ZBrush) sculpt first as the freeware stuff like NetFabb may or may not repair STL meshes to your liking.

There may be some rare exceptions like the B9 Creator 3D printers where its Layout/Slicer software will be quite lenient about non-watertight STL meshes, but generating clean meshes will always be the smarter practice. This clip shows overlapping STLs of Eiffel Tower models emerging without complaint:


I believe STL also carries the scaling info. Things I CAD model (in Rhino), export to STL, and feed into my envisionTEC and B9 machines always come through in the proper intended ring finger size. Here, the printer’s layout/slicer software lets you (last chance) re-define the X-Y-Z scale before slicing. As far as I know, Sculptris doesn’t provide much (if any) scaling control before it exports an STL mesh so your last resort might be at the 3D Printing software stage. The ScaleMaster plugin for ZBrush & ZBrushCore is included to specifically tackle proper scaling in the exported STL.


Using sculptris, you can directly export your 3d model into obj format. It’s highly recommended that you double check if the mesh for the 3d model is ready for 3d printing. You can use MakePrintable to repair any 3D printing related problems automatically. Also, if you don’t have a printer and if you want to 3D print it professionally, Fabrelica new service that offers 3D Printing with a hand-painted service. I thought this hand painted 3d printed collectible is pretty awesome.

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I’m in the implementation of this project with other 3d software to be done in the future in which I also use.
Those who answered me
thank you so much!