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Getting Started with Sculptris Pro
This 3 part Workshop hosted by Paul Gaboury will get you up and running on everything Sculptris Pro, from UI and usage, customization, and combining it with other ZBrush features.
Getting Started with...Using Tessimate
Learn to manipulate topology to your needs with the Tessimate feature. Your host Paul will show multiple examples of how to use this powerful feature with the addition of explaining the difference between Tessimate and Decimate.
Using TessimateThe Basics of PolyGroupIt
In this 2 part Workshop, Paul Gaboury will give you a full run down of how to use PolyGroupIt, then in part 2 we'll show you how PolyPaint and PolyGroupIt can be utilized together.
The Basics of...Using Elastic & Liquid Curve Mode
This Lesson will show multiple Curve Mode examples including IMM Curves, the elastic option, the liquid option, Lock Start, Lock End, Rotate Curve, and Smooth Curve. Now let's go make some Curves!
Using Elastic &...Discovering Groups by Normals
Creating PolyGroups can be very useful when modeling and or sculpting in ZBrush. In this Lesson, we'll demonstrate how to create new PolyGroups on a hard surface model using it's normals and edge degrees.
Discovering Groups by...Deformers
A Workshop focused on the powerful wide spectrum of ZBrush's Deformers. Buckle in as your host Solomon Blair takes you through each Deformer and their abilities.
Deformers
:D ;) :confused: :evil: :cry: :idea: :lol: :rolleyes:

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07-21-18

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New Video Out!
In my new video, I break down the following: ► The initial concept and character design. ► 3d modeling and digital sculpting in Zbrush. ► The use of live booleans in Zbrush for designing and preparing the model for 3d printing. ► The 3d printing process along with showing time lapse footage on a Raise 3d N2+.

07-07-18

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New 3d Modeling Video Breakdown

  • JL Mussi
    07-09-18
    I got the scan data at a local studio. They had a nice DLR camera setup with good lighting that made the scan data high in quality. I do like some of the retopology tools in Maya better than using the method in Zbrush. Also some of the transform...
  • Wyatt
    07-11-18
    Cool vid. I'll keep an eye out for the next. Looks like you've got the build to pull off Scorpion. I'd probably be closer to Bo' Rai Cho lol.
  • JL Mussi
    07-12-18
    lol...thanks man, I have been working out for a while but I'm kinda new to cosplay.
07-01-18

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Hello, Managed to get some work done this weekend on my Scorpion Shoulder Armor....looking to start deigning the forearm armor next.

  • JL Mussi
    07-07-18
    Glad you like it. Yea I plan on hiding that strap somehow. I have an attachment at the tip where it faces my neck that I plan to run a strap. Ill figure all the attachments once I get done printing all the pieces.
  • JL Mussi
    07-07-18
    I created a new video breaking down my modeling workflow for this piece. https://youtu.be/cJ7IieIld8E
06-16-18

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Here's an update on my Scorpion Shoulder Armor. Trying to balance out the sanding between getting rid of the print lines but keeping the surface details.

06-14-18

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Shoulder Armor Progress
Scorpion Shoulder Armor has been quiet a challenge so far. Two different designs and numerous sizing changes. After a couple of tweaks to the models and some failed prints, I got all the final parts printed. This weekend we glue, sand and prime!

06-05-18

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Mortal Kombat 9 Scorion 3d Printed Mask and Armor
Working on creating a full Scorpion costume based on Mortal Kombat 9. Armor pieces were sculpted in Z-brush. I used a Raise 3d N2+ for the printing. Weathering and paint test on first print. Mask fit test. Second version of the mask printed. I have small tweaks in the design on the back side to support the metal mesh. First design I tried creating for the shoulder piece. I went back and re-sculpted the shoulder piece for my 3d printed armor piece. Felt like the first one was a bit too busy and did not got with the mask that well.

03-14-18

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Another update.
All 7 pieces of the torso glued and attached. Finally onto the bondo & primer.

  • JL Mussi
    03-15-18
    Thanks for the feedback. Glad you guys like it.
03-12-18

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Latest Update
Starting to sand and glue the torso.

  • gabo1991
    03-13-18
    What a fantastic project. Thank you for sharing.
12-24-17

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Update on the Neck Armor. Coming together piece by piece.

  • Totyo
    12-28-17
    Such massive print! Very good !!
  • JL Mussi
    12-30-17
    Yea this thing is only getting bigger piece by piece. Thanks!
12-20-17

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Torso and Neck Armor Update
Making good some progress on my project. There's another piece of the neck armor in the printer as we speak. Nothing is glued at this point, waiting to have all the parts printed out to see how they fit.

  • JL Mussi
    12-20-17
    Thanks! I'm pretty happy with my N2+ so far.
12-12-17

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Head Print Completed.
Here's another update. Head is completely printed! Time to remove supports and hope not to damage the print. Then it's off to print the ears and assemble the head and base of the neck.

  • Rogan
    12-13-17
    That's fantastic. Great sculpt. The Raise 3D does a great job too. The layer lines are barely visible.
12-08-17

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Printing in Progress!
Mesh is ready to go! Added my supports, tweaked print settings and hit PRINT! 177 total hours, this is my longest/ biggest print to date. This is what it looks like with 41 hrs left. So far so good!

12-08-17

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Additive Booleans
Here's a breakdown of the merging all the pieces into one solid water-tight mesh. It's a pretty straightforward process. 1) Enable "Live Boolean" display option. 2) Ensure that "addition" is selected. 3) Select "Make Boolean Mesh". This will create a new Subtool. This is how the same eye area looks after the additive boolean process. This lends itself much better for 3D printing.

12-08-17

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3D Printed Apocalypse Life Size Bust
So I started the process of 3d printing a model of Apocalypse that I created a couple of years ago on my Raise 3d N2+. I decided to create a bust of the character and print it life size. I first did some research on traditional busts to get a sense of possible direction for the print and how the torso would be split up. I wanted to find a right balance of removing the enough of the upper body that the piece is not overly massive but leaving enough to get a sense of what the character would be like as a whole. I found out that cropping too much of his body would also make the neck armor overly large, so I needed the right amount of torso to balance it out. This was a good opportunity to put Zbrush’s 4R8 new boolean tools to the test. I started by creating basic shapes and just cutting into the body. The great thing about the booleans in Zbrush is that it’s a non destructive workflow. So once “bake in” your changes, a new subtool will be created, while still keeping your cut out shapes and original mesh intact. The other nice feature is that you can preview your booleans live and move around your geometry that is cutting away at your mesh and get an instant visual update. After starring at this for a while, I quickly realized something was off. I realized that the expression needed some work. It was perfectly symmetrical and the brows and nose had to be tweaked. I also had no pore details. I was able to put all the pores and wrinkle details and a separate layer. This also gave me the flexibility to push in those details further if they didn't show enough on the print. In my initial design was the full character so this didn’t stick out as much nor was it my focal point. Now it came time to optimize this for print. Besides cutting up the torso, the booleans tool was a good option to unify your mesh. When using an FDM printer, overlapping areas in a model will waste more material, increase print times and most importantly can cause errors or weak areas in your print. The goal here is to create a clean "watertight" mesh without any overlapping parts I hid part of the mesh to illustrate my point. These eyeballs printed like this will cause some of the issues I stated above. I learned that the hard way! Here's how a small test section I did came out. As you can see the eyeballs and ears are being printed inside the head, wasting material and making the print weaker as those shells are not merged.