3D Glasses Anaglyph Tutorial

[u3190]

This Tutorial is for those who have Red and Cyan 3D Glasses and want to make their models come out of the screen and appear over 9000 times cooler than they actually are.


1.) Render your ZBrush Model in Perspective.

2.) Export your Document as "_insert name here_Right.psd"

3.) Rotate your model to the left just a small fraction, so that the rotation distance is as if it is the distance from right to left eye.

4.) Export this Document as "_insert name here_Left.psd"

5.) Open up both images in Photoshop and copy the left image into the right image as a New Layer. (So that the left image is above the right image.)


6.) Double click the Left image in the layers panel so that the "Layer Style" box pops up. Uncheck the "R" Channel, so that the Left Layer appears to be only Red. (For some reason when you uncheck the R Channel it removes the Green and Blue channels).


7.) Click OK and save your image! It is now Red and Cyan Anaglyph 3D!


Please note, The Red side of the glasses is LEFT, and Right is Cyan

[Giri_Babu]

wow....

Thnx for tut....

I will try!

[moonlitmaverick]

Thanks for sharing your technique. the first creature head really comes out of the screen. I recently tried the anaglyph render
http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthr...3&page=5&pp=15
I basically copied the red channel from one render and pasted it into the red channel of the other render.

[DataDay]

There is an alternative method one can use as well. This is the result of making something I did while learning zbrush and turning into a 3D (anaglyph) image in photoshop.



Using the "Offset" tool under Filter-> Other, and only having the Red Channel selected (Channels Tab), you can nudge the Red Channel left or right (positive or negative values using offset tool) to make the image popout or sink in. This has to be done on the horizontal value.



You can then use the selection options in photoshop to pop specific ares of the image (say cheek bones) with a positive value and push back areas (eye sockets) with a negative value.

This is mainly useful if you have a 2D image that only has one perspective, but it works none the less.

[u3190]

Post your 3D Images on this Thread! Lets get a 3D Thread Going!

[killfrog58]

cool tutorial!

[Slice]

But where do I get those glasses :P thought they stopped making those like 80 years ago :P

[u3190]

you can find them in some magazines. I got mine from my mothers vogue.

[Sebcesoir]

Seems cool, I want to try...
Damn need those glasses lol

[Phönix]

I did this with Photoshop myself a long time ago, but there are better solutions.

I highly recommend the StereoPhoto Maker, it's the best tool I could find for this kind of work and it's free!

And I would suggest to safe the stereo pictures as .jps (that's in fact an ordinary .jpg where the pictures for both eyes are arranged side-by-side) and let the viewer program (you could use the StereoPhoto Maker as a viewer too) show it in the desired stereo mode. That's way more flexible and you keep the full quality available for other viewing technics.

@u3190:
By the way, you interchanged left and right at the back view (the very right one) of your monster.

@Slice:
Just search the internet for anaglyph glasses.

e.g. you could by them here: http://www.studio3d.com/pages2/store_glasses.html

and they are even available for free: http://www.rainbowsymphony.com/freestuff.html

[u3190]

@Phönix
Thats a nice little program, thanks (its a shame it doesn't do video, after effects will have to do for now)
I personally prefer Photoshop as I usually edit the images first with the BPR render images option in zbrush, and then later do the anaglyph settings.

POST YOUR BEST MODELS IN 3D I WANT TO SEE THEM

[Phönix]

@u3190:
Surprice!
The same author offers a similar program for video too, called the StereoMovie Maker.
And there are also some other stereo 3D tools by him.
You'll find all of them here: http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/

But if you're also interested in editing stereo 3D in AfterEffects, i have another tip for you: The Stereo-3D-Scripts by Chris Keller.
They are a good workflow enhancement for that topic. Take a look at the tutorial.

I personally prefer Photoshop as I usually edit the images first with the BPR render images option in zbrush, and then later do the anaglyph settings.

So what? When using the StereoPhoto Maker you can also edit your pictures in Photoshop first. Make them stereo is the last step of course and you have the benefit (as I told above) that you don't loose your source images and e.g. can still adjust the virtual screen plane during viewing in 3D if you save the picture in .jps format. Use the left/right arrow keys for that. But be sure to choose the Side-By-Side mode before saving in .jps otherwise you may get crap!

And if you don't need further aligning for your pictures you could edit them seamless side-by-side in Photoshop too and save it as a jpeg but name it .jps and you can also use a .jps capable viewer to present them, if you like.

A few more useful hotkeys:
With the [Page Up]/[Page Down] keys you can switch to the previous/next picture in the current folder, with [F6] you show it as b/w anaglyph, [F7] is for color anaglyph (the prefered Settings for that modes you can choose in the menu or icon tray), [F11] is for viewing the single left picture and [SHIFT]+[F11] for the right one.

I have setup the StereoPhoto Maker to be my standard viewer if I double click .jps files in a way that it launches in full screen mode and interprete these pictures as Side-by-Side half color anaglyphes by default.
I can exit it simply by pushing [ESC] and enter the main screen of the program by pressing [Enter] if I want to adjust or edit something.

I hope that helps.

[Betamax]

u3190 & Phönix!! This is great!! I have a question about rotating the 3D model. Is it better to rotate the model or move the model? Also what method are you using to rotate? When I rotate my model how much is too much or too little?


thanks for your time.

[Betamax]

I don't know how my reply turned to Black type above sorry guys Think it changed colour when I copied & pasted your names, oopsie.

[u3190]

u3190 & Phönix!! This is great!! I have a question about rotating the 3D model. Is it better to rotate the model or move the model? Also what method are you using to rotate? When I rotate my model how much is too much or too little?

It is better to rotate the model, otherwise it will be more like a 2d photo coming out of the screen. The method is really simple, just use your mouse to rotate the model slightly.
In regards to how much rotation, just take a look at some of the reference images I put on this thread. Its about 5-10 degrees depending on the model. Just play around until you get it right.